Separate an infested plant
Move it away from touching foliage. Inspect nearby plants too, treating those with the same pest.
Topic
Use a magnifier on leaf undersides, stem joints, and new growth. Identify live pests or their distinctive traces before selecting treatment.
Move it away from touching foliage. Inspect nearby plants too, treating those with the same pest.
Wipe off honeydew or rinse leaves, shielding the pot from excess wash water. Photograph damage and check for live pests after treatment; old scars will remain.
What you may see: Small dark flies emerge from the potting mix; larvae live in the moist medium.
Next check: Use a sticky trap to locate the source pot. Control larvae as well as adults, while keeping moisture suitable for the plant.
What you may see: Fine pale stippling, tiny crawling dots, and sometimes delicate webbing.
Next check: Check undersides and tap a leaf over white paper. Rinse both leaf surfaces, then follow a mite treatment with repeat inspections.
What you may see: Silver scars and black specks, often on distorted new leaves; slender insects may be visible.
Next check: Inspect open leaves and the outside of sheaths without forcing a new leaf apart. Treatment must account for stages missed by one application.
What you may see: White waxy or cottony clusters in leaf joints, often with sticky honeydew.
Next check: Separate the plant and remove visible insects with a damp swab or cloth. For remaining insects, choose a product labeled for mealybugs on that houseplant and repeat as directed; inspect joints between treatments.
What you may see: Attached shell-like bumps on stems or leaf ribs; soft scales often leave honeydew.
Next check: Wipe or lift off accessible insects gently, preserving the stem surface. Use a labeled houseplant scale treatment for remaining insects and crawlers. Recheck stems because old shells can remain after insects die.
By plant
Choose your plant for more specific advice.
Household detergent is not formulated or labeled for plant treatment and may damage leaves. Use an insecticidal soap labeled for the pest and plant, testing a small area first and following its directions.
If most growth is badly infested or repeated treatment cannot reach hidden colonies, discarding the plant can be simpler. Bag it before carrying it past other plants, then clean the pot and growing area.

Start with the pattern: one old leaf, several leaves in wet soil, dry yellowing, or pale speckles with pest marks. Each needs a different response.
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A damp pot is normal after watering. Check for trapped runoff, slower drying than usual, and worsening leaves or soft stems before deciding what to change.
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Check leaf age, moisture inside the root ball, and pest marks to decide what a yellow monstera leaf needs.
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Check for a dry root ball, wet decay, pests, or a recent temperature or light change. Follow the matching rescue route and keep healthy tissue.
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Use the spot’s location, texture, and change over time to decide whether to check roots, exposure, pests, or leaf disease.
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Check speckled leaves for moving mites and fine webbing, then wash the foliage and follow through with repeated inspections and suitable treatment.
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Silver scars, black specks, and slender insects call for a close leaf inspection. Remove visible thrips and keep treating the stages hidden from the first pass.
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Follow the affected vine to separate an aging leaf or broken stem from a watering problem shared by the whole pothos.
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Timing narrows the cause: sudden curl in a dry pot, midday curl near hot glass, a leaf that stays rolled, or new growth opening distorted.
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Confirm which pots contain larvae, use sticky cards to track adults, and treat the soil stage without drying moisture-loving plants into distress.
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Normal nighttime leaf movement changes the leaf’s angle. Persistent rolled blades call for a moisture, heat, humidity, and mite check.
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Use the mark’s starting point, texture, and rate of change to choose between watering, salt buildup, sun damage, pests, and a closer disease check.
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For trailing heartleaf philodendrons, check cultivar color, the growing tip, and the stem between yellow leaves and the pot.
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Check recent moves, wet or dry roots, and sticky pest residue to find why a rubber plant is losing leaves.
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