Separate tips from spots
Tip burn starts at the leaf end or edge. Spots may appear in the middle of the leaf, on the window-facing side, or around pest damage.
Topic
Brown tips and brown spots are often grouped together, but they do not behave the same way. This hub helps you decide whether the damage is old tip burn, active spotting, scorch, pest pressure, dry air, mineral buildup, or a root problem.
Use the analyzerTip burn starts at the leaf end or edge. Spots may appear in the middle of the leaf, on the window-facing side, or around pest damage.
Dry, stable brown tissue is old damage. Soft, expanding, yellow-ringed, or pest-marked damage deserves faster inspection.
Old brown tissue will not turn green. The useful question is whether new growth is cleaner after you correct the care pattern.
Signal: Tips crisp after repeated wilt-and-soak cycles.
Next check: Use pot weight and soil depth to make watering steadier.
Signal: White crust appears on soil, pot rims, or drainage holes.
Next check: Flush only if the pot drains freely.
Signal: Dry tan patches sit mostly on exposed window-facing leaves.
Next check: Move the plant back or add a sheer curtain.
Signal: Marks spread, new growth distorts, or soil stays wet.
Next check: Inspect leaves and roots before cutting everything back.
No. Brown tip tissue is dead. Recovery means the pattern slows and new leaves appear with less damage.
Sometimes. Dry stable spots may be old scorch or physical damage, but soft, spreading, yellow-ringed, or pest-related spots need quicker inspection.
Filtered or rain water can help mineral-sensitive plants, but it will not fix poor drainage, watering swings, or root stress.
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